Thursday, June 26, 2008

Iranian Head Coverings for All Seasons

Head Coverings for All Seasons
In ancient Iran , a head covering represented the profession, race and social rank of the person. Used for ornamentation or one’s comfort, head coverings or hats include the crown, including closed, open or integrated crowns, which were worn by kings, diadem or Deihim, Basak (the straight cap), Dastar (turban-like cap), Bashlogh (hood), and egg-like felt caps.
Hats also distinguish a social class, tribe or nationality, Cais-soas.com reported.
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Early Uses
A head covering had special significance for Iranians in ancient times. Its use dates back to cavemen who used it to protect themselves from the vagaries of weather.
Different types of hat and cap were developed, modified and perfected with the growth of human civilizations to suit geographical and social conditions.
Hat was used as an ornamentation device to beautify the body and satisfy one’s aesthetic cravings and religious beliefs.
The hat was used in special religious rites and ceremonies as a sign of devotion and humility.
The head cover used by the bride is a striking example. Symbolizing modesty and chastity, it is currently used mainly for decorative purposes.
Certain professions also call for a special type of cap, dress or uniform to provide for the worker’s safety and meet the specific needs of a profession.
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Ancient Times
The ancient Medians or Persians resorted to simple decorations as symbolic images. A careful examination of such images leads us to divide them into human, plant, animal, abstract images or a mixture of such elements.
The ancient world was a mysterious world of celestial and terrestrial wonders mixed with human fear, hopes and myths.
Ancient images were symbolic in nature and represented authority, rank, religion, ritual, gild, or features such as bravery.

Designs
Hats in ancient times incorporated images and designs that signified specific meanings.
Water Lily (Niloufar): Water lily is considered an eternal and sacred flower, and represents Mehr (the sun) and Mithra (worship). As a result, the flower and the stalk or the simple lily with its petals in a circle or hoop has been used in Iranian fabrics during the Parthian, Sasanid and even Islamic periods.
Image of Sun: The sun (Mehr) enjoyed a special symbolic significance in ancient Iranian religious rites. An example of use of sun is its round disk with rays divided into three directions all of which were placed in a hoop. One most famous symbol was the sun chariot.
The importance of the sun (Mehr) in religious rites was such that many experts consider the crown (and even the wedding ring) as its manifestation.
Serrated (toothed) Towers: Serrated towers were other symbols used in ancient times, and such designs represented ancient temples. An example of serrated tower is shown in the mosaic bas-relief Khozi soldiers’ dress in the Louvre Museum . In these images, one can see quadrangular images. Inside the quadrangle, one can see three serrated towers rising from a mound. These three towers represent Varjavand or a combination of Ahura Mazda (Zoroastrian), Mithra and Anahitian religions.
Geometric shapes included a pyramid or round checkered additions which were either used in the margin or as the background, and also used to adorn ritual hats.
In the decoration of hats in ancient Iran , one does not see human or animal images.

Types of Hats
An examination of images of bas-reliefs in ancient buildings and objects leads us to divide Persian hats into crowns, diadems (Deihims), Basaks, straight caps, Dastars, Bashloghs and egg-like felt caps.


Crown
Crown was a special head cover used by governors. The crown represented special power bestowed to the king from heaven and each part of its ornaments symbolized the beliefs and religions of the time.
A majority of crowns were serrated and the serrations were in the curves and symbolized towers, battlements or perhaps Mehr (the sun). The crown was so respectable that the court would hardly thrust its upkeep to everyone.
The crown was divided into three groups: closed, open and integrated crowns. The closed crown (a crown covered at the top) was composed of a headstall and an arch and its edges and sides were decorated by gold. The closed crowns were either wholly made of metal or non-metal material.
In non-metal crowns, the frame was made of non-metal matter and a metal part was mounted on it. The metal crown was either fabricated by casting or by engraving the metal.
Sivaris was a type of crown used during the Achaemenid period. This was a tall and serrated golden crown decorated by gold leaves and colorful jewels. The Achaemenid crowns were either closed or open crowns and were excessively worn by kings. The king’s crown was taller than other crowns and its walls had symbols of the temples of the time.

Basak
Basak is a circular ring made of flowers and branches or metal ring made of flowers. It might be considered as a special sort of diadem. So far, the real application of Basak has not been discovered, but in the past there was a sort of Basak that looked like a rope from distance. Such Basaks were mostly used by military officers. Many bas-reliefs of soldiers in Persepolis adorn the Basak.
Basak was either made of metal or felt. The non-metal felt Basak was worn during hunting and war to prevent the hair from being disturbed. The Basak was worn by the king, his courtiers, military officers and even ordinary people.

Straight Cap
This was an inverted cone cut at the base and made of felt and scented by gums and other fragrant material. These were either split or simple caps. The simple straight cap was used as replacement for the crown for daily affairs of kings.
The difference between split and simple straight cap was in the shears on the body of the cap. Apparently, the split sheared caps were worn by soldiers. What is particular about this cap is the image of Ahura imprinted on it.
A comparison of the straight caps known as Parsi caps with those worn by the Assyrians shows that the Achaemenid straight cap was a modified version of the Assyrian one.

Dastar (Turban-like cap)
The real purpose of Dastar is not known. This was a pointed felt cap or hood or shawl which was wrapped over the head and neck or a sort of felt cap. Its true rank is not known because the Dastar was worn by servants and maids. Right now in many places, including Kurdestan, the natives wear a sort of cap on which the Dastar is wrapped.

Bashlogh Hood
This is a felt cap which has special strings hanging behind the ear and back, which narrows as it descends lower. Behind the arch of the Bashlogh, there was an additional piece which was folded in the front. It was worn by Median armor wearing officers. The Bashlogh with slight modifications is still woven in Kurdestan.

Egg-Like Felt Cap
This cap was known as Median cap. The only ornament on the egg-like felt cap is a lace at the edge of the cap. The images surviving in Ghalayechi Hill in Bukan from Manayian period as well as crowns from the Sassanid period has revealed that a diadem was worn on the felt cap. The felt cap was worn by Achaemenid warriors and Median officers. A similar cap is still being worn by Iranian nomadic tribesmen.

Head-Scarf
This headscarf worn by women in ancient times reaches as far as the ankles. The Dastar was worn by Achaemenian women and is still used by Zoroastrian women.
The corners of this shawl-like Dastar were not wrapped under the neck. It was placed on the lady’s head in a manner that covered all her hair or it was hung like a tail at the back. The Dastar was generally worn with a diadem or Basak, and was the scarf popularly used by the Iranian women in the past.