Friday, June 19, 2009

Kashan A Green Oasis

Kashan A Green Oasis

Kashan, Iran Tehran, June 19, 2009: Kashan is the first of the large oases along Qom-Kerman Road that passes near the edge of a desert. Its attractiveness is mainly due to the contrast between the greenery of the oasis and the parched desert. The city flourished during the Sassanid dynasty, but was demolished during the Arab invasion with the exception of a few ancient buildings. It prospered again during the Seljuk rule and is known for its ceramics since then. Though it was destroyed again during the invasion of Mongols, it became an important town in the Safavid rule and Shah Abbas II made the city its capital. Some Safavid rulers, however, preferred to live in Kashan rather than in the capital. A local historian wrote that Kashan’s name is derived from “Key Ashian“ which means place of rulers, Iranchamber.com reported. Location Bound by Isfahan, Qom and Markazi provinces, Kashan is located near Ardestan and Natanz. Kashan has been overshadowed by Isfahan, but is considered one of the ancient cities of Iran. Archeological discoveries on the Siyalk Hillocks, which lie 4 km west of Kashan, have revealed that it was one of the primary centers of civilization in prehistoric times.

Kashan lustre-decorated star-form pottery tile 13th c.

Kashan has long been known as a flourishing center of arts and a cradle of Iranian artists. The cultivated, talented and dynamic people of this historical city have been famous as manufacturers of excellent glazed vessels and tiles, weavers of fine brocades, velvets and silk fabrics and creators of superb carpets and rugs. As producers of various handicrafts, Kashan has consistently ranked as outstanding exponents of numerous other arts and crafts. It also boasts of various historical buildings and sites, which attract both domestic and foreign tourists. Agha Bozorg Mosque This mosque as well as the theological school, Madraseh Agha Bozorg, is located in central Kashan. The mosque consists of two large corridors, one in front of the prayer niche and another by the entrance. It also has a courtyard with a garden and a fountain in the middle. The courtyard is surrounded by arcades. The corridor in front of the prayer niche has two minarets and a brick dome. The colors of arcades and corridor are mainly blue, red and yellow against a brick ground. Boroujerdi Residence This used to be a private home but now is open to public as a museum. The house was built in early 19th century and consisted of a vast courtyard, beautiful wall paintings and very unusual wind towers that help cool the house. Bagh-e Fin Bagh-e Fin is located a few kilometers southwest of Kashan, in the small village of Fin. It is one of the most famous gardens of Iran. This beautiful garden, with a large pool and orchards, was designed for Shah Abbas I as a classical Persian vision of paradise. The original Safavid buildings were rebuilt by Qajar dynasty, although the layout of trees and marble basins is close to the original. It is a pleasant spot to relax in. The garden is also notorious for being the site of the murder of Mirza Taqi Khan known as Amir Kabir, the minister of Nassereddin Shah of Qajar in 1852. Friday Mosque Friday Mosque or Masjed-e Jomeh, with its 11th-century prayer niche, was built during the Seljuk era and has been restored several times. One such renovation dates back to Timurid Dynasty and has a minaret with ancient inscriptions. Tabatabaie Residence The house was built in the 19th century and consists of a charming courtyard and beautiful windows with color glass panes. This used to be a private home but now is open to public as a museum. Tappe-ye Sialk The most significant archeological site in central Iran is the Sialk Mound. It was excavated by Gershman in the 1930s, which revealed that the site is more than 7,000 years old. Sialk was occupied from 4th millennium BC until 8th century BC. Probably, one of the most interesting findings are inscribed clay tablets dating back to the late 3rd and early 2nd millennium BC. There are also records showing immigrants and conquerors passing through this region and settling near Bagh-e Fin. The artifacts uncovered are displayed in the Louvre Museum in Paris and the archeological museum in Tehran. Officials are making efforts to publicize Kashan as an attractive tourism spot and the increasing number of visitors shows that they have been successful.
An Oasis of Calm - the Carshi Mosque | Arts of Islam

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Obama admits US involvement in Iran coup in 1953

"Obama admits US involvement in Iran coup in 1953
Jun 4 01:30 PM US/Eastern

US President Barack Obama made a major gesture of conciliation to Iran on Thursday when he admitted US involvement in the 1953 coup which overthrew the government of Prime Minister Mohammad Mossadegh.

"In the middle of the Cold War, the United States played a role in the overthrow of a democratically elected Iranian government," Obama said during his keynote speech to the Muslim world in Cairo.

It is the first time a serving US president has publicly admitted American involvement in the coup.

The CIA, with British backing, masterminded the coup after Mossadegh nationalised the oil industry, run until then in by the British-owned Anglo-Iranian Oil Company.

For many Iranians, the coup demonstrated duplicity by the United States, which presented itself as a defender of freedom but did not hesitate to use underhand methods to get rid of a democratically elected government to suit its own economic and strategic interests."
http://www.breitbart.com/article.php?id=CNG.32cde4b38d55ae6af28266bb31a7221e.851&show_article=1

Monday, May 25, 2009

Mousavi will not resort to every ploy to win the election.

Ex-MP urges Judiciary to stop mudslinging

Former MP Emad Afrough has urged the Judiciary to prevent any kind of mudslinging by presidential candidates or their supporters if any presidential aspirant decides to name his cabinet.

“Some of the candidates are afraid that upon introducing their cabinet, some individuals will resort to mudslinging against them and unfortunately this is not farfetched. The Judiciary power should take action whenever widespread mudslinging” happens, he told the Mehr News Agency on Saturday.

Ayatollah Taheri supports Mousavi candidacy

Ayatollah Hassan Taheri stated on Saturday that he supports presidential hopeful Mir-Hossein Mousavi in the upcoming election. “We will be happy, pleased, and content if you win the tenth presidential election,” he said in a meeting with Mousavi in Isfahan.

Mousavi visited Ayatollah Taheri’s home during his visit to Isfahan Province. Mousavi emphasized that Ayatollah Taheri has played an important role in the Islamic Revolution.

Mousavi not to resort to any ploy to gain power

The Servants of Construction Party spokesman, Hossein Mar’ashi, stated on Saturday that Mousavi will not resort to every ploy to win the election.

“One of the most important reasons for supporting Mousavi is that Mousavi believes in the content of the Islamic Republic of Iran and will not resort to every effort to stay in power,” he told the MNA.

Mar’ashi added, “Preserving the Islamic Republic does not mean preserving its form, rather it means preserving the content of the Islamic republic… The content of the Islamic Republic means people should have freedom and the right to choose.”

Relations with Europe, U.S will be the hottest issue

The Islamic Coalition Party has issued a statement stating that relations with Europe and the U.S. will be the hottest issue for the next administration.

“Undoubtedly, our most important issue in the next administration is defining the new relations with Europe and the United States based upon wisdom and the system’s expedience and with an emphasis on resistance, perseverance, and maintaining the country’s independence,” part of the statement read.

The statement cited some goals that the next administration should realize and insisted that President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad is able to materialize those objectives if he wins the election. The ICP has previously announced its support for Ahmadinejad.

Mousavi ally opposes naming cabinet before election

Expediency Council member Majid Ansari stated on Saturday that naming cabinet before the election is not “expedient”.

“I do not agree with introducing the cabinet by the candidates before the election because (one) cannot introduce an inclusive cabinet in such a short time,” he told the MNA. Ansari supports Mousavi in the election.

Mousavi will try to resolve workers’ problems

Former MP Soheila Jelodarzadeh has said that Mousavi will try to relieve the problems of the working class. “Mousavi’s most important plan in supporting workers is to restore suitable conditions for working and production (sector) in the country,” she told the MNA in Semnan Province on Saturday. Jelodarzadeh, a defender of the labor class, leads the coalition of Mousavi’s supporters.

Mousavi looks for “peace of mind” in the society

Mousavi has stated that he will make efforts to bring about a “peace of mind” in the society.

“One of my slogans is freedom from fear … Fear does not have only a physical meaning, rather, peace of mind should be created in the society. This will not happen unless an administration’s most efforts go into resolving economic problems,” he said on national TV on Friday night.

Friday, May 8, 2009

Mount Damavand Iran

Mount Damavand Iran Snow-covered Mount of Damavand, the highest peak in the Middle East (Photo by Oshin D. Zakarian)

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Tanavoli’s “The Wall and the Script”, brings $218,500 Dubai

Christie’s Dubai Sale Raises $4.8 Million on Trimmed Estimates

By Ayesha Daya

April 30 (Bloomberg) -- Christie’s International sold $4.8 million of art last night in Dubai, within estimates, after the auction house trimmed prices as the economy slowed and its previous sale missed targets.

The most expensive lot was Parviz Tanavoli’s “The Wall and the Script”, a bronze sculpture enveloped in Farsi script that sold for $218,500, compared with a $120,000-$180,000 estimate. A year ago, Tanavoli’s sculpture “The Wall (Oh Persepolis)” sold for 10 times as much, fetching a record $2.84 million in Dubai. Christies had estimated the art sale would tally $4.1 million to $5.9 million.

“Buyers are still active and works represent good value with re-adjusted estimates which still represent multiples of values of 2 to 3 years ago,” said Michael Jeha, managing director of Christie’s Middle East, in an e-mailed response to questions before the sale. “We have pitched our estimates conservatively and are sensitive to the environment in which we and our clients are operating.”

The proportion of lots selling at some international auctions has declined as buyers hesitate in the worst recession since the Great Depression, with Christie’s looking for cash from emerging markets in the Middle East, Asia and Russia to boost sales.

The auction was for art from the Middle East and North Africa. Christie’s said it was the first time works from Saudi Arabia had been offered in an international auction.

Christie’s previous Dubai auction of paintings in October raised $8.6 million, half its estimate of $15 million to $18 million.

To contact the reporter on this story: Ayesha Daya in Dubai adaya1@bloomberg.net

Last Updated: April 30, 2009 02:49 EDT

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Parviz Tanavoli on the Iranian Art Market

04/21/09 Bookmark and Share
Sculpture for oil: Iranian artwork in Christie's Auction
By Saghar Rafiee, Iran (Source: Mianeh)

While oil prices are rapidly dropping in global markets, prices in arts auctions have a different story. Iranian paintings, calligraphies and statues are becoming increasingly expensive as they were on sale in international auctions.

file photo, 2007

Previously, it was only the cinema which could bring fame to Iranian artists and filmmaker. Now, the floor is also given to Iranian artwork in auctions such as Christie's which is bound to change the economics of arts in Iran. In the Iranian arts market, no one is any longer surprised by the high prices of these works. Very few people would be astonished about the increasing rise of prices in artwork. In the first Christie's auction which was held in Dubai in May 2005, a painting by Farhad Moshiri and a photo by Shirin Neshat each hit the record of sales among Iranian artwork at a price of $40,000.

In the second auction which was held in February 2006, there were works by Mohammad Ehsai, calligrapher, Parviz Tanavoli, sculptor, and Farhad Moshiri, painter and graphic designer, hit the record of Iranian artwork sale in the world at $102000. In the third Christie's auction on 31st October 2008, Farhad Moshiri earned the highest amount after Ahmad Mustafa, the Egyptian artist. Moshiri's painting received a bid 7 times more than it was initially estimated and was finally sold at $600,000.

In the fourth auction, Iranian works hit the incredible record of $2.5 million and Iran had the highest sale in the fourth Christie's. In this auction, six artworks from Iran stood among the 7 most expensive items on sale. 'Persepolis' sculpted by Parviz Tanavoli, the Iranian sculptor, hit an unprecedented record of $2,500,000 as the most expensive item of this period of Christie's which is also a top first in Christie's history in the Middle East.

Sales for Iranian and Indian artworks of this auction were generally made on the phone from New York, London, Milan, Paris, Geneva, etc but 95% of sales for Arab artwork were done in person. According to figures released by Christie's Auction, 77% of buyers from this auction have been from the Middle East and Iran, 17% from Europe and UK and 6% from the US. In the fifth auction of Christie's on 28th October 2008, in the modern and contemporary category, Mohammad Ehsai's calligraphy painting was sold at $482,500 in a highest sale ever in a Christie's auction in Dubai.

Competition over owning works by renowned artists is a dream of many rich people. Nonetheless, the sale of artworks in Iran has a long history. According to Shahriar Adl, an expert on visual arts, about 500 years ago, before the end of the Timurid era and the beginning of the Safavid period, paintings by Behzad had a large number of buyers. Mughal empires who were contemporaries of Shah Abbas in India were patrons of art and spent lavishly on buying and collecting artworks.

Shahriar Adl says, "Visual arts works from India and China are still among the top sales of auctions. One cannot even say with certainty what kind of works by Iranian artists are sold best and well received by buyers. Although most of the works on sale in these auctions belong to contemporary artists, attention to more traditional works such as calligraphic paintings of Sedaghat Jabbari and Mohammad Ehsai, which are among the most expensive items in these auctions, reveal that buyers are more interested in works rooted in the ancient arts of Iran."

According to Parviz Tanavoli, it is now time for investors to turn their attention to investments in arts rather than the typical investments in properties. Parviz Kalantari is an artist whose clay works have been sold for the first time in Christie's auction. About the impact of these sales on the market of artwork in Iran, he says, "The good thing about inside Iran is that usually the galleries play the role of proxy between the painter and the audience; thus the painter only spends time on the painting. Another important aspect of it is that the artworks of artists inside the country are presented to the world of art globally. This aspect is more important to me. Of course, the economics of art is a very serious matter."

Parviz Tanavoli, the Iranian sculptor whose work titled 'Persepolis' was sold at the highest price in the fourth auction of Christie's in the Middle East, believes that it is still too early for Iran to achieve its rightful place in the global centres of art in the world. He says, "The success of Iranian artists in reputable auctions such as the Christie's will be an important impetus."

The buyer of this artwork is the private Iranian Bank, Pasargad, that bought Mr. Tanavoli's work at $2,000,841. Tanavoli says after his work was presented at Christie's, there was barrage of requests from buyers for his work. He expressed hope that this may be good model for other Iranian banks to invest part of their assets on art instead of buying properties, following the example of European and American banks.

Shadi Ghadirian is an Iranian photographer who pays particular attention to 'Iranian woman' in her works. One of her pictures is the image of a women clad in traditional chador, which has been sold at Christie's. Shadi Ghadirian says, "Right now, in Iran, there are two types of prices for art work: an Iranian price and a foreign price." This means that artists whose work is sold at Christie's auction have some of their works evaluated and sold at a price much lower than the one sold abroad and therefore, naturally, some buyers are after the Iranian price of these works. Shadi Ghadirian speaks about the reason for this waver of interest on Iranian artworks in auctions indicating the point that in the past couple of years, art centres and galleries have multiplied in Dubai, "As these galleries grow in number, so does the art work which goes in display and hence the good market for them. As regards, the rise of art works prices in Iran, I must say I am happy about it. This should have happened."

On the share of the artist from the sold item in auctions, Parviz Tanavoli says, "Usually, a small amount of the price belongs to the artist and creator, even though the item might have been sold by the artist before, but I do not thing this is the case in Iran." In auctions such as Christie's, Phillips and Sotheby's, they rarely deal with an artist personally. All these auctions work more comfortably with galleries. Therefore, a big percentage of the share would also go to the gallery owners." Ghadirian speaks about rumours of deals among gallery owner sellers and sometimes among artists themselves in these auctions. She says, "These kinds of deals have always existed all over the world and in history. This has nothing to do with only Iranian artists and their participation in such auctions in Dubai. This is not only about us, As far as it concerns us, this is a good thing. Either way, it means the rise of prices for Iranian artworks. In the past few periods, they did not ask for any work from me directly. They had taken my work from a collector who had bought the work from me many years ago. Therefore, I had no share in it. However, eventually, as a result of what happened, there was a change in the prices of my other works and this was, anyway, good for me."

Now, as the Iranian art is flourishing in international auctions, gradually markets open up for these works in Iran too. The 'Seven Outlooks', which is a collective gallery by seven well-known Iranian art galleries, launched a real auction in Iran. Following this event, other art institutions such as Saba Cultral and Art Institute and the Ministry of Culture followed suit. Nonetheless, reputation of international auctions is one important factor which may give a new direction to an artist's work.

There are also artists who take advantage of this opportunity for political attention to Iran as the name of Iran is mentioned in the media and they can present a different image of Iran to the world. Here, it is not the oil barrels which have a price fluctuation. After the memorable period of Iranian carpets, it is now time for Iranian paintings and sculptures to create new trade opportunities for Iran.

Saghar Rafiee is a journalist in Iran

About Mianeh: Mianeh is a new independent web-based initiative run as a project by the Institute for War & Peace Reporting (iwpr.net) the award-winning non-profit media development organisation that works across the globe to platform local voices and promote international learning and engagement. Mianeh aims to be an open space for ideas, news and debate where writers in Iran can reach out to each other as well as to those outside the country who are interested in learning more about the vibrant and dynamic society that is Iran today.

... Payvand News - 04/21/09 ... --

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Cave Hotel in Kandovan Iran

Iran: Checking in to a hobbit's des res

In a cave hotel in northern Iran, Nigel Richardson finds Premier League football on the TV and a receptionist quoting 'Kubla Khan'.

1 of 3 Images
Checking in to a hobbit's cave hotel
The Laleh Kandovan International Rocky Hotel has heated tile floors

The shrubs in the gardens of the hotel were swaddled in plastic and sacking against the cold. Freezing fog swirled like ectoplasm as my boots crumped up steep, snowbound steps. There was a valley below and a hillside above, but because of the fog I could only imagine what they looked like. Then, by a door in a rock, the bellboy put down my bag and produced a key. He opened the door and, kicking off our snowy boots, we walked into the hollowed-out middle of the rock. We were standing in a place that came pretty close to Tolkien's description of a hobbity des res at the opening of The Hobbit – "a tube-shaped hall like a tunnel… going fairly but not quite straight into the side of the hill" – although, admittedly, the front door was neither circular nor green.

Under our stockinged feet the heated tile floor was warm as pitta bread fresh from the oven and there was a flat-screen television in the corner. When I clicked the remote it bloomed to noisy, vivid life: Aston Villa versus Newcastle, live from Villa Park.

This probably isn't the strangest hotel in the world. To claim as much would no doubt be to invite a barrage of readers' letters detailing ocean-floor auberges or pensiones run by penguins. But the Laleh Kandovan International Rocky Hotel, in the province of East Azerbaijan in north-western Iran, is unusual in itself (not least because the receptionist quoted chunks of Coleridge's Kubla Khan at me as I checked out), and fascinating in terms of its location.

The hotel, which opened in 2007, is on the edge of the mountain village of Kandovan, 27 miles south of the city of Tabriz. The village is known for its cave houses – a population of about 700 live in hollowed-out rocks the shape of witches' hats, like the famous "fairy chimney" formations of Cappadocia in Turkey. Until the hotel opened, it was possible only to pay a day visit to Kandovan, where the inhabitants speak a Turkish dialect and are known for the frosty reception they give to outsiders.

Incorporated into caves that climb across the hillside, the hotel has 10 rooms so far, with another 30 planned, and a large restaurant. All the rooms have under-floor heating and some have whirlpool baths. There are Persian rugs on the floor and the walls have recessed lighting. The decor is stylishly minimalist, using plenty of tiles and letting the rough rock sides do the talking.

The opportunity to stay overnight – to try to get to know the village a little better than a day trip would allow – had been too good to pass up. Still, it was the dead of winter, a perverse time to come. Temperatures were well below zero and when we arrived, on a Saturday afternoon, the freezing, swirling fog blanked everything out.

Tempting as it was to stay in and watch the football, I set off for the village with my guide, Mr Sassan from Tehran. It was a five-minute trudge through a snowscape in which crows cawed among leafless walnut trees. "In September you see the men up these trees, calling in the walnuts," said Mr Sassan, "and the ladies below, catching them with the corners of their chadors." Somewhere over to our right, beneath a blanket of snow, lay the frozen river that is locally famous for its health-giving waters. Fruit and nut trees grow in profusion along its banks and their produce is exported around Iran. "The apples here are like the cheeks of young girls," Mr Sassan said wistfully.

Above the invisible river and the trees, Kandovan's extraordinary snaggle-teeth houses came into view, dotted across the gummy hillside. Their windows looked sketchy and random, as if they had been prodded through Plasticine with the end of a crayon.

Kandovan means "Land of the Unknown Carvers". No one knows how long people have lived here, nor who first had the idea of carving the soft rock, known as tuff, into houses. Some say the houses date from the 12th century, others that they pre-date Islam (7th century). There is even a theory that the surrounding region is the biblical land of Nod, where Cain was condemned to wander after murdering his brother Abel.

It remains a conservative and closed community. On the main street we passed a group of men – all bearded and wearing thin anoraks and baggy trousers – who watched us expressionlessly. Mr Sassan pointed out a sign in Farsi: "Dear Tourists. Please do not enter the people's houses. It is strictly forbidden. Your behaviour is the sign of your character."

A young bearded man wearing an astrakhan hat approached us. "Hello, goodbye," he said in English, adding in Turkish: "This is all the English I know." He introduced himself as Musa Kiani, said he was 22, and gestured us towards his open-fronted shop where nylon sacks and cardboard boxes were brimming with almonds, walnuts, dried fruit and medicinal herbs.

Musa extolled the properties of various herbs and Mr Sassan leered. "This is for if you want to have a good night with the wife," he translated, pointing at some dried green stuff. Almost everything, it turned out, was for if you want to have a good night with the wife.

Mr Sassan negotiated a price with Musa for a bag of walnuts. The next day, in Tabriz, Mr Sassan would compare the quality and price of walnuts and realise he had been diddled, but for now everyone was happy and we pulled off a coup – Musa agreed to show us his family cave house. As we climbed the muddy cobbled path of Haji Alley he hailed a man bottle-feeding a goat on his front doorstep and explained that people brought their animals indoors for winter.

Musa unlocked a green-and-white door (more promisingly hobbity, this) and invited us into a warm, whitewashed chamber. The floor was covered with rugs. A fridge, telephone and television were hidden beneath squares of embroidered material, as if modernity was faintly indecent. A sink had been hewn from the rock. The kerosene heater was hardly required, Musa said: once the house heated up, it stayed warm until spring.

It's true, this rock made of compressed volcanic ash is superbly impervious to the cold. It reached minus 4F (minus 20C) that night, but back in my burrow-like hotel room, with the lights turned low and the snow falling outside, I felt as snug and smug as a fictional creature in a popular fable.

  • The Laleh Kandovan International Rocky Hotel (0098 412...) has double rooms from about £150 a night, including breakfast. Magic Carpet Travel (01344 622832; www.magiccarpettravel.co.uk), which specialises in trips to Iran, can book the hotel, as well as organising visas, flights and tailor-made and group tours of the country.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Iran: Rafsanjani Not Down, Not Out - Brilliant Analysis

17 Mar 2009
http://www.isn.ethz.ch/isn/Current-Affairs/Security-Watch/Detail/(parameter)/?id=97795&lng=en

Iran: Rafsanjani Not Down, Not Out

Rafsanjani campaigning in 2005/siavush/flickr

Aliakbar Hashemi Rafsanjani campaigning in 2005.

A triumphal state visit to Iraq aimed at isolating the Iranian radicals and an important re-election boost Rafsanjani's position in the hierarchy, but the fight is not over, writes Kamal Nazer Yasin in Tehran for ISN Security Watch.

for ISN Security Watch

Former Iranian president Aliakbar Hashemi Rafsanjani is no ordinary politician. Few individuals match him in versatility and sheer willpower. A leader of the underground political organization before the revolution and the country's leading politician afterward; the commander of the armed forces during the war; an apparent anti-reformist during the Khatami years; a badly defeated front-runner in the 2005 presidential race; and now the hardliners' implacable foe; Rafsanjani's career has seen many ups and downs in his half century of political trajectory.

During the reform era, his popularity rating was among the lowest of any living individual in the country, but after the hardliners' victory in 2005 and his subsequent reconciliation with the reformists, Rafsanjani's popularity is on the rebound. Today, he is universally recognized as the most important clerical foe of President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad and his many backers. On top of this, Rafsanjani is positioning himself as a leading religious modernizer.

"In 2005, most people thought he was finished," said a veteran Iranian journalist to ISN Security Watch. "He was 71 years old and had been turned by the radicals into a symbol of everything that had gone wrong with the system. No one expected him to return to the top again."

Monday, March 16, 2009

Iranian Pres Ahmadinejad from Jewish Family

Review of Iranian Jews' financial situation
http://www.ynetnews.com/articles/0,7340,L-3686617,00.html

Jewish community in Iran is biggest in Middle East outside Israel, with some 20,000 people. Although Jews enjoy average standard of living compared to rest of population, like other religious minorities they suffer from discrimination. Nevertheless, they don’t want to leave
Doron Peskin

The Jewish community in Iran is the biggest in the Middle East outside Israel, with some 20,000 people – compared to about 80,000 before the Khomeini revolution.

This is one of the most ancient communities, with a history that goes some 3,000 years back. The Jewish community in Iran is concentrated in three cities – Tehran, Isfahan and Shiraz.

Like other minorities in Iran, the Jewish also suffer from discrimination, which is particularly noticeable in the economic area. The Iranian regime does not allow foreign elements free access to the Jewish community, making its economic situation difficult to analyze based on proven figures.

However, according to most of the information accumulated in the past few years, it appears that the majority of the Jewish community enjoys an average standard of living compared to the rest of the Iranian population.

The recent years have seen a drop in the average Iranian citizen's standard of living, despite the considerable increase in the revenues from oil. The high inflation the Iranian economy is suffering from has not skipped the Jewish community members.

Governmental clerical work – off limits

A significant number of the Jewish community members in Iran are independent, operating small businesses in the trade and retail fields. This is, among other things, a result of the fact that the Ayatollahs regime prevents the Jews from obtaining senior posts in government ministries, in commissioned ranks (Jews are drafted by the army just like the rest of Iran's citizens), in the legal system and in the education system.

Some of the Jews are employed by governmental bodies or state-owned companies, but their chances of being promoted to senior management posts are very small.

In general, the Jews' level of integration in the Muslim population, including in the economic field, is lower today than before the revolution.

In addition, despite public declarations on religious equality and a religious decree on the matter issued by Imam Khomeini, the Iranian law stresses the supremacy of Islam in different economy-related fields.

In inheritance laws, for instance, if a member of a Jewish family converts to Islam he is entitled to the entire heritage if the rest of his siblings remain Jewish.

Another example in this context refers to murder cases and compensating the victim's family. In such cases Iran acts in accordance with Islamic law and the principle of "money for the blood." In other words, the victim's family can leave the murderer free of punishment in exchange for compensation from him or his family. In today's Iran, the compensation given to a Jewish family in such a case totals 10% of the compensation given to the family of a Muslim victim.

Raising funds on internet

The Jewish community in Iran has adapted to the electronic era, and a special website helps the community raise funds to fulfill its needs. Donors from abroad, led by wealthy Iranian Jews who emigrated after the revolution, infuse millions of dollars every year to the community for charity purposes.

The donations funds help operate Iran's 30 synagogues and the Jewish hospital in Tehran. Incidentally, this hospital is considered a particularly good medical center in the Iranian capital and nearly 95% of its patients today are Muslims. Part of the medical staff is Jewish, and its entire budget is based on donations.

Recently, the hospital's offices even received a direct donation from the office of Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad. However, as opposed to the hospital, Iran refrains from providing financial aid to the Islamic republic's Hebrew schools.

Ahmadinejad's Jewish roots

Several weeks ago, the Iranian president was slammed for allegedly hiding his Jewish roots. Mahdi Khazali, the son of one of the most prominent Muslim clerics in Iran, published a special article on the republic's Jewish community on his blog. In the article, he wrote that the Iranian president was a descendant of the Jewish Saborjian family from the village of Aradan.

Khazali said that the president's harsh attacks on the Jews, Zionism and Israel were aimed at covering his origin. He stated that the president's Jewish family changed its name to Ahmadinejad in order to hide its Jewishness and help its sons pave their way in the Iranian society.

The correct fact in this story is that Ahmadinejad did change his surname, and according to his relatives this was done for "religious and financial reasons."

Even if they claim is wrong, it appears to point to the current situation in the Iranian society, in which Jews are limited in terms of their economic chances due to their religion.

Financial incentives unhelpful to emigration

Iranian Jews' emigration levels in the past few years are tiny. This may be the result of their fear of the authorities' attitude towards those left behind, or the fact that the Jewish community in the country is growing old and prefers what it has in Tehran over the unknown in Israel.

In any event, the financial incentives initiated by the State of Israel and offered to Iranian Jews by organizations abroad in order to emigrate have been publicly rejected by the community heads.

At the time, the community leaders issued a harsh statement expressing their discontent with the thought that "their nationality can be negotiated".

This statement may have been dictated by the Iranian regime, but statistical figures show that between the end of 2005 and the end of 2006 only 200 Jews agreed to emigrate from Iran in return for those same generous incentives.

Those who emigrated stated that their main reason for leaving Iran was the poor economic situation they suffered from rather than the political situation.

The good ol' Shah days

The Jewish community in Iran did not experience economic distress during the Shah's days. Before the Khomeini revolution Jews were considered the leading businessmen in Iran, and were part of the business elite. Jews held key positions in the oil and banking industry and in the legal system.

The Iranian Jews' financial and social situation improved under the Pahlavi dynasty's reforms from the 1920s. The Jews were not restricted in their freedom of occupation choice, and the protection fee they were forced to pay was canceled.

In addition, the ghettos in which the Jews lived before the Shah rose to power began to disappear. In Shiraz, the historic center of Jewish life in Iran, only 25% of the Jews continued to live in the Jewish neighborhood (ghetto) as of 1977.

The Jews rushed to integrate in the Iranian society and channel the opportunity given to them to the economic field as well. In the 1930s and 1940s, the Jews established themselves as Iran's leading carpet merchants.

Due to the increased demand for Persian rugs in Europe, the Jewish merchants went on regular trips to the leading capitals in the European continent and expanded their commercial ties there. As opposed to the European authorities, the Pahlavi regime protected the Jews in the 1930s and 1940s.

In the 1950s Tehran thrived, and the immigration of Jews to the Islamic republic grew stronger. In the 1960s and 1970s, the Persian rug exports industry was controlled by Jewish-owned companies. The market had seven or eight companies with an export volume of $75-80 million, and two times more companies whose volume of sales abroad was estimated at $25-45 million a year.

In 1960 the Shad established full diplomatic ties with Israel. The commerce between the two countries was quickly expanded, and delegations of Israeli businesspeople visited Iran often. Israeli companies even won bids for Iranian projects, but this ended all at once in 1979.

Immediately after the revolution, the Jewish community was terrorized. The most famous incident was related to one of the community's wealthiest members and a local philanthropist, who was hanged immediately after the revolution after being accused of "having ties with the traitors and the nation's enemies".


Dozens of the Jewish community members were executed later on suspicion of "economic corruption". Simultaneously, the private property of many Jewish businessmen was confiscated, prompting the wealthy people among them to emigrate.

Doron Peskin is head of research at Info-Prod Research (Middle East) Ltd.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Rick Steves documents Iran at personal level on PBS show

Published: Saturday, January 17, 2009

Rick Steves documents Iran at personal level on PBS show

Tired of the majority of photographs and TV clips portraying Iranians as only angry people burning U.S. flags or building nuclear reactors?

Or maybe you're just curious about this country that's the size of Alaska. Then turn on the hourlong "Rick Steves' Iran" (KCTS, 10 p.m. Tuesday).

Steves' outstanding travelogue shows slices of Iranian culture, religion, environment, and people from 21st-century cities and very old country towns.

The Herald columnist's approach is to mostly stay away from the current politics of the two governments while providing the structure of history and culture.

He says upfront that although the Iranian government required that they travel with a guide (who often took photographs of the crew while filming) and placed restrictions on what he could cover, the restrictions were looser than he expected.

Given some of the conversations that he held with Iranians, those restrictions didn't seem to threaten Steves' ability to interact with people nor to silence the Iranians' opinions. The Iranian people were friendly and fascinated by Americans making a TV show about them.

"I have never traveled to a place where I had such an easy and enjoyable time connecting with people," Steves later wrote.

He packs much into his hour. The majority of Iranians are Persians. Persians are not Arabs and don't speak Arabic, but Farsi. Much of the signage in Tehran is in Farsi and English. Mile-high Tehran is a modern city of 14 million people with notorious traffic and a subway system equal to those in Europe. The country has a mix of chador-covered women and those in modern dress (with head scarves).

We learn that the national museum has fewer than expected exhibits, because most of the treasures were looted in the past for Western museums or destroyed.

The show takes viewers into beautiful mosques, across deserts, by ruined castles, and showcases the splendor of the Persian empires, including elaborate, colorful mosaics and Persian carpets, one of which took a master weaver more than a year to make.

Steves did include some more recent history, including the Western-backed Shah of Iran, fear of American meddling, the Islamic Revolution and restrictive Islamic law. It is not, he points out, a democratic nation.

There are large anti-Israel and anti-American murals on the walls, but at street level, there is curiosity and delight with talking to Americans.

But the Iranians that Steves talked to made it clear that they differentiated between the people of the U.S. and the government. According to Islam, visitors are a gift of God.

"Iran" may help many viewers overcome stereotypes, or at least absorb a broader sense of that country.

And Iran wants more tourists, Steves said. His show, which is being aired nationwide, may motivate some to travel to Iran, even if you have to travel with a guide.